I wake at 2:58AM and turn off the 3:00AM alarm. The kids are pros now and only a few words are spoken to get everyone up and out of our bungalow. We wait outside under the coconut trees to see if the taxi we arranged for last night will show. Headlights appear and we are off. At the airline ticket counter we are told that we must have a visa for Vietnam BEFORE arrival and not upon arrival as I had thought. I am permitted to crawl behind the counter and use one of the airline computers to find a fast visa service online. $850 later we wait for email from the visa bureau while the clock ticks away towards boarding time. The email arrives and I climb back over the baggage conveyer belt to rejoin the line with waiting customers – many of whom have wide eyes and mouths agape at what they’ve witnessed.